In the Condado do Tea subzone of Rías Baixas, Toni Alonso of Veigamoura makes nothing but Albariño.

Condado do Tea lies inland, away from the Ocean, so its vineyards are more influenced by the river than by the Atlantic. In fact, wines from this area are traditionally referred to as viños da raia — wines from the border. Historically, Condado do Tea developed a style of its own. Being further inland means warmer conditions, resulting in wines that tend to be more concentrated, waxier and more flavoursome.

This is certainly the case with this Veigamoura. A 100% Albariño vinified in stainless steel, it displays a beautiful character, riper and more generous than that of many coastal Albariños. Expect juicy peach, apricot, nectarine and grapefruit peel, alongside a festival of rose, peony and orange blossom. On the palate, it is waxy and unctuous without losing its freshness. Here, that freshness feels more crystalline and river-like than tense.